For so long, Spain was regarded as a source of

inexpensive red wine with only Rioja standing

above the parapet. Now there is a plethora of

interesting wines in many different styles.

Exciting fresh whites, especially from the Albarino in the Rias Baixas and Verdejo in Rueda, but also with Viura in Rioja, have extended the choice.

Modern techniques and a new appreciation of what might be possible have encouraged pioneers to produce some startlingly attractive reds. There are thoroughly competent wines from La Mancha now and some striking bottlings of Monastrell (known elsewhere as Mataro or Mourvèdre) in Jumilla.

Thankfully, the modernisation of the pedestrian has not held back successful traditional styles of wine. These Reserva and Gran Reserva wines have the gentle fragrance of well-seasoned fruit in partnership with a dash of vanilla oak. There are also subtle differences between regions of Rioja and in the precise makeup of the grape mix, Garnacha and Mazuelo supporting the dominant Tempranillo.

The only challenger to Rioja's claim to red wine supremacy is the Ribera del Duero, where the same red grape, Tempranillo, defines the wines, though known here as Tinto Fino.